This is Curtsey of the:


Rebuilding a Double Mantle Lantern

Rebuild Instructions

Before you start you should remove all of the fuel out of the lantern. Put this old fuel in an approved container that you don't need and dispose of it properly. You can find a hazardous waste recycling facility in your telephone book under public health.

Recommended Tools and Supplies List.

Tool List
Cleaning Stuff List
Replacement Parts List
Fire Extinguisher
Eye Protection
9/16" end wrench
Long 1/2" box-end wrench
7/16 end wrench
3/8" end wrench
5/16 end wrench
Flattip Screwdrivers S,M,L
#0 or #1 Crosstip Screwdriver
Razor Blade
9/16" deepwell socket with long extension
Pliers
Plastic 3lb Coffee Can Lid
Propane Torch
Spray Cleaner (Simple black)
Auto Rubbing Compound
Metal Polish
Carburetor Cleaner
Coca Cola
Motor Oil
Generator
Check Valve & Stem
Filler Cap Insert Gasket
Valve Stem Packing

1. First thing we need to do is to remove the lantern's ventilator and globe. Unscrew the ball nut at the very top of the lantern. Pull the ventilator up and off, then pull out the glass globe.

2. Now we need to remove the generator and the burner assembly. Turn the tip cleaner stem to the "up" position (loop facing up). Then take your 7/16" end wrench and loosen the jamb nut on the generator. Once it is loose slide it up the generator. Then pull up on the generator sleeve to expose the needle assembly. The end of it will be inserted into the eccentric block. Because your tip cleaner stem is "up" you'll be able to pull the stem right out of the eccentric block. Remove the entire generator and jamb nut from the lantern and set them aside.

3. Spin the lantern around to the tip cleaner stem is away from you. Down on the gas tip cleaner assembly you will see a screw. It may be a flathead or crosstip. You'll need to angle your screwdriver down over the frame to get to it so don't strip it but it needs to come out. This will unlock the air intake tube from the gas tip cleaner assembly. Then grab the entire burner assembly (very top of lantern) and start unscrewing it. The air intake tube will back most of the way out of the gas tip cleaner assembly. When it comes free of the threads, pull it up to remove and set it aside.

4. Now we're going to remove the tip cleaner stem from the tip cleaner assembly. Take your 3/8" end wrench and apply it to the stem. It may take a little pressure to unlock it but it will come out. The entire stem will rotate with it. As soon as it backs out far enough you'll note that the eccentric block falls down inside of the assembly. This is okay, we'll get it out in a minute. Completely unscrew the stem and set it aside.

5. We're about to loosen the frame. During this phase it is really easy to scratch the heck out of the top of the fount because the bottom edge of the frame rest is real sharp. So sharp, in fact, that often times the factory's placement of the rest cuts the paint and leads to chipping all around it.

6. Now we need to loosen the nut that holds the frame down against the frame rest. This little nut can really be a bear so please take your time and exercise patience! Get your thinnest 9/16" end wrench and loosen the nut. Once it comes free you'll probably be able to back it all the way off with your fingers. Be gentle now so you don't disturb the frame.

7. Now that the frame is sloppy get the coffee can tool out. Gently slide it between the fount and the frame rest. The 3/4" hole should find itself around the valve and the lid should be completely over the fount.

8. Okay, this can be a rough step. You'll note in the tool's list I said have a "long" 1/2" box end wrench..you're about to use it. Look at the tip cleaner assembly. In the middle of it is the only place to fit a wrench and it is 1/2". The only way to get to this is from the top. And, to complicate matters getting leverage to that spot, at that angle, is rather difficult. So what you need is a box-end wrench that is long enough to where the box end sticks up above the frame when you have the wrench fitted down on the tip cleaner assembly. Take a good long screwdriver and stick it through the "box" end of the wrench. Have someone hold the fount firmly and twist off the cleaner assembly. It may take some force but don't be afraid of it. If that 1/2" wrench is snug down there it will not let go. I've really torqued on them and have yet to damage even one.

9. Once the tip cleaner assembly comes free it will unscrew all the way out. Go ahead and lift it out and then, with one hand under it, turn it upside down. You'll remember that there is a free eccentric block inside? It will come right out. Put both pieces aside. Take your frame and lift it right off and set it aside too.

10. Now you can take off your frame rest. You may or may not have the channel under the valve hole to work with. If you have the channel, just slide the rest forward and lift up and off. If you have no channel you just need to slide the rest a little further forward so the rest completely clears the valve stem end. This may take a "gentle" squeeze. Take the rest off and set it aside.

11. Next to come off, or should I say "out," is the valve assembly. A few words before we start this one. The fount is soft, it may be brass depending on which lantern you have. When you apply a wrench or wrenches to the valve you need to ensure you are applying square torque. If you try to rotate around the fount lop-sided or at an angle you'll bend the top for sure. Sometimes you'll get lucky and the valve will come right out. But most of the time you'll have to fight with the factory's seal job. Get your 9/16" end wrench and the long 3/8" drive extension with a deepwell 9/16" socket. You'll note that the top of the valve is hexed for your 9/16" wrench. It is but I've found it less dangerous to the fount if you apply torque to both sides of the valve. In Fig 9A you'll see the end wrench around the valve. Also there is the socket with extension on the valve stem. MOST OF YOUR PRESSURE NEEDS TO GO ON THE END WRENCH! Use the extension to steady yourself and then, if you need it, gently use it to unscrew the valve. Once that seal is broken it will come out pretty easy. Once it does you'll see the Fuel & Air tube at the bottom.

12. The fitting on the Fuel & Air tube is a 3/8". Grab you end wrench and unscrew the tube from the valve bottom. Once it comes out you'll find the top of a rod that is resting on a spring inside the tube. If really sticky sometimes this rod will stay with the valve when you pull the tube. If it does this a gentle tug should pull it out. Set your Fuel & Air tube and the rod/spring assembly aside.

13. Next step is the pump plunger assembly. Turn the fount so the pump is facing you. Depending on when your lantern was made you are either going to see two screws holding the plunger into the fount, or a "C" clip. Un-screw the small screws or take a small screwdriver and gently pry out one side of the clip to remove it. Often times this plunger's cap is stuck to the fount this old cruddy gas and oil and dirt. So, holding the fount firmly, pull straight out on pretty hard to snap it free. If you do this once or twice and it won't give, which happens, carefully take a screwdriver and using a rag and the fount for leverage pry all around the cap until it comes free. Once it comes out set it aside.

14. Inside of the cylinder you just removed the plunger from you'll see a square rod. This is your air stem and it is screwed into the check valve. Take a pair of pliers and unscrew it and remove. Take some "break free" spray, or carburetor cleaner, and shoot a couple of squirts down inside the pump plunger cylinder. Let this soak for about 1/2 hour or more before proceeding.

15. Okay, now comes the hardest part, the check valve. You'll need to take your time and be very careful here to get it out of your lantern. And I will tell you-sometimes it doesn't matter how careful you are, the check valve will strip out. A discussion about this little piece first.

The check valve is a small piece of brass that sits at the very bottom of the pump plunger cylinder. It screws into the fount and over the years gets locked down there. It is installed tightly in the first place but dirt, oil and some gas gets into the threads over time and it doesn't usually like to come out. And, because it is brass, the slot in the top will strip out real easily.

The following procedure will give you the best chance of success with a large flathead screwdriver. But I want you to know that it still may not work. Should you strip out the check valve you can take it to a machinist to have it removed with an easy-out our you can send the fount to me and I will remove it for you, at no charge, but you'll need to pay for round-trip shipping. But first let's try and get it out with a screwdriver.

16. If you look down inside of the pump plunger cylinder you'll see the check valve down there. You'll see that the top of it is slotted. The "perfect" screwdriver for this job probably doesn't exist. This would have a blade width of 1/2" and a blade thickness of 5/16". Finding a screwdriver that thick would be real tough. So I recommend you find the thickest one you can. And, if possible, take a file or a grinding wheel to make it 1/2 wide. If the blade is too wide it will hit the sides of the fount and won't go into the check valve slot. Your intent here is to get a good bite in this slot and you may have to modify a screwdriver to achieve this.

17. Once you have a screwdriver that will work you'll need to have someone hold the fount for you. You'll also need to attach either a wrench or vice grips to the screwdriver so you will have some torque. Do not apply any force to the screwdriver until it is perfectly centeblack in the cylinder! If it is off-center the blade tip will not be square to the bottom of the slot and it will strip it out.

18. With one hand hold the screwdriver handle...apply a real good bit of downward force while making darn sure the handle is centeblack in the cylinder. Then use the wrench or vice grip to unscrew the check valve. The result will come quickly...it will either "pop" and come loose or it will strip the slot out. All I can say is "good luck" here...

19. Next we're going to disassemble the fuel cap (or filler cap). First thing to do is to make sure it comes off. If you have a lantern than has been sitting for many years the cap may be frozen to the fount. To ensure that the old gasket hasn't connected itself to the fount just take the cap off. Then put it back on and tighten it as much as you can with your fingers. Tightening the cap will lock the insert and gasket down on the fount so you can get the screw out. With a flathead screwdriver try and unscrew the center screw. If something seems to be "slipping" it means that the cap is too loose...tighten it some more. If you can't tighten further with your fingers you can gently apply a pair of pliers to get it real tight. When the screw decides to let go you will feel a small "snap." Remove the screw and then take the cap off again. This time, the insert will be left on the fount. It should pull right off with your hand but may need a little help...lightly tap on it to remove if necessary. Set your 3-piece fuel cap aside.

20. The lantern is now disassembled. But during the process we left a few things undone that we need to go back and finish. We need to take apart the burner assembly and we need to remove the valve stem and packing.

21. The burner assembly you removed in an earlier step consists mainly of the main air intake tube, the mixing chamber and the two burner tubes and caps. The backside of the mixing chamber will probably have a screw in it. Sit the burner on your bench and put apply a good screwdriver to this screw. Tap on the screwdriver with a hammer a couple of times, not too hard, just to free it. Then remove the screw. The air intake tube and both burner tubes are screwed into the mixing chamber. With your hand you can lightly squeeze the tubes, then wiggle them, until they unscrew. If they have really locked in the chamber gently take a pair of pliers to the tubes and they should come right out. If the air intake tube won't come out with your hand put the tube lightly in a vice and unscrew the mixing chamber with a pair of pliers. You will end up with the four major parts separated. Inspect the screen at the bottom of the burner caps...if it is solid there really is no reason to separate the caps from the tubes. If they're bad or sloppy they'll need to be replaced. Set all these pieces aside.

22. Next comes removing the valve stem from the valve and taking it apart. With a 2-mantle lantern is process is very easy. Get your valve and hold it with a pair of pliers. Take a 9/16" end wrench and loosen the large retaining nut. It may take a bit of force but it should unscrew pretty easily. If you're wondering why we didn't do this when the valve was still secublack in the fount, it is because the force requiblack to loosen this nut will sometimes twist the valve and bend the fount. Anyway, remove the retaining nut and set aside.

23. Grab your valve wheel and apply it to the valve stem. Just like you're opening the valve, turn the wheel counter-clockwise until it comes out. All the way out. It may require you to pull on it a little bit but the entire valve stem will come out. Now remove the wheel. The "packing assembly" consists of a thick brass band, the packing and a thin brass band. These three pieces will pull right off the wheel-end of the valve stem. This may require a little force--if that packing is really tight you can break it with a pair of needle nose pliers by gently squeezing it.

Cleaning time! We're going to work over the different parts of the lantern now. The sequence is not really important but we'll start off with a couple of pieces that will take some time to finish. We're not going to talk about buffing wheels and bead blasters so you should already have everything you need to complete the job.

24. The first step will be the pump plunger assembly. After years and years of being inside the pump cylinder the leather pump cup at the bottom of the plunger will form to the size of the walls. It also may dry out completely, get hard and/or dryrot. So first inspect your pump cup. If the leather is completely inflexible or if it has any cracks that are all the way through leather you'll need to replace it. But this is quite rare; most pump cups are just formed to the cylinder or dried out and still good.

25. Take the pump cup and pull it back. This will open it up like an umbrella. It may take some convincing to stay in this position but it will. Look again for deep cracks in the leather. If none just take the "opened up" pump cup and submerge it in motor oil. It needs to soak at least an hour so just let it sit.

26. Next we'll replace the filler cap insert gasket. If your lantern has a filler cap that does not have a screw in the center, or if you are going to replace your current cap with a new one, you can skip this step and continue on.

27. Grab your eye protection, insert, fire extinguisher and propane torch and go outside. Find an appropriate spot to burn the insert on. I use a fire brick but a well-hidden spot on concrete will work. Just a spot where you won't start a fire! The old gasket may spit at you and it will be very hot so ensure you're wearing your eye protection when you do this.

28. Set the insert down on the burning surface with the gasket facing you. Light your torch and start heating up the insert. It is brass so don't worry about the heat damaging it. Apply direct flame to the insert and watch the old gasket get real uncomfortable. It should move and turn like an old dying snake. Once you see it lift and crack and begin to turn to ash it is probably done. The insert may glow by now and that is okay. Leave this to cool for quite awhile because obviously it got pretty hot. Once you can stand to hold it in your fingers, continue on.

29. The old gasket should be pretty easy to remove now. Use a very thin and sharp tool to remove the crisp remains. I usually us a dental pick for this and it works real well. You have to make sure you get all of the old gasket out. Don't stop until the groove is clean-bottom and both sides. A wire brush will assist you at the end.

30. Putting in the new gasket is fairly easy. When completed it will sit completely flat all the way around. The new rubber has a tendency to want to lift around the edges, or twist. Just work with it and it will finally all sit down flat and tight. Once you're done with this step set the insert aside.

31. Next we're going to take some parts and soak them to remove all the soot and other fun things that adhere to exposed brass. Get yourself an oblong dish of sorts, something deep enough and wide enough to completely submerge all the parts we want to soak. In a Coca Cola or Pepsi bath, soak the main air intake tube, burner tubes and caps, burner head and the jamb nut. These pieces are all brass and the soak will clean them pretty well. This is an overnight soak... Now if the bottom of the lantern frame is really cruddy you can put it in a large dish and fill the Coke to a point where it just reaches the upper lip of the frame bottom. But remember that the frame is not brass and it will react differently to the air when it comes out of the bath. That means rusting.

Once the brass pieces have soaked they will appear much more like brass. Wash them off with water and then dry them off with a towel. Set them aside as we'll do some more (and faster) cleaning in a little while.

32. On to the fount. There will undoubtedly be some rust inside. If you shake the fount real hard you'll probably hear it. The amount of cleaning depends on the amount of rust inside, obviously. Hold the fount upside-down and shake it, allowing the rust flakes to come out the valve hole and the filler hole. Shake and shake and shake until there is nothing left to make noise inside. If there is a whole bunch of rust inside, as in a complete layer of it, you can put some shotgun BBs in there to loosen it all up. Keep in mind that more rust means less metal and too much rust will render the fount unsafe to use.

33. Look at the filler cap hole. There is probably some rust and corrosion on top of it and around the inside where you can see. Shoot it with carburetor cleaner and go after the rust with a rifle bore brush or wire brush. A light scratching with a flathead screwdriver may be requiblack. Be careful not to scratch the paint or nickel around the hole. Some of the rust will fall inside the fount-just shake it out again.

34. Once you have all the rust that you can hear out, time to blow it out and wash it. If you have compressed air, insert your nozzle into the filler hole and point the valve hole away from everything. Blowing into it like this will give you a thick stream of rust-dust. After doing this, or if you don't have a compressor handy, fill the fount about 1/4 way with clean gasoline. Cover the filler hole and valve hole and shake the fount real well. Pour out the gasoline into your "bad gas" container. Repeat this step over and over until the gas you pour out is clear. Don't snitch on this step...your lantern doesn't like rust being pulled up into the fuel & air tube.

35. If you have a nickel plated fount there are a myriad of hand-buffing pastes and liquids out there for you to use. I have tried BrassO and silver polish-they seem to work okay, none significantly better than the other. The amount of time you spend on a nickel fount is proportional to the shine you want.

36. We can treat a painted fount just like an old car, one that has been sitting in the sun for 30 or so years. After many combinations and cleanings I have come up with what I think works best for founts: a good cleaner (I LOVE Simple black) and rubbing compound. First spray the entire fount (bottom too!) with cleaner but shy away from the three holes in the fount. Let it sit for a moment to loosen the heavy build-up that may be on the very top If the fount has a lot of loose dirt on it, wipe it down now and re-spray with cleaner.

37. Now spray some cleaner into your dish of rubbing compound. Rubbing compound can be really abrasive, which is good, but we'd like it to be a little less so and the puddle of cleaner in it does the trick.

38. Now you clean the fount just like you'd wax your car. The cleaner/compound mixture will remove most of the black spots and residues and such. If you rub too hard or too long in one spot it will also remove paint so be careful. You'll note that your rag starts to take on the color of the fount. This is the oxidized paint coming clean. The area around the filler hole and the plunger cylinder are hard to get to so take a stiff tooth brush after them.

39. While the compound is covering the fount we'll take the time to clean out the plunger cylinder. I use carburetor cleaner for this--do NOT use brake cleaner! Spray some carb cleaner down in the cylinder and try to get the sides where the corrosion has built up. Take a rifle bore brush or a small wire brush and clean the sides of the cylinder. Once you've done this turn the fount upside down to drain the spray. Then, with the fount still upside down, spray the cleaner up into the cylinder to remove all the grit from the check valve hole. When the liquid pouring out is clear feel the inside of the cylinder-it should be smooth. Repeat as necessary to remove that dirt build-up.

40. Now go after your fount again, this time with a soft cotton rag. If the compound has hardened and is really hard to get off you can give it a light shot of cleaner to assist you. Use a new toothbrush for those two areas. When you have it all off you should have a very clean and much brighter fount. Set it aside.

41. The last part that will require a real thorough cleaning is the fuel and air tube. The F&A tube spends its life in the fount and often times in bad gasoline. Depending on how bad, and how long, the tube will grow a hard shell of corrosion around it and at the bottom. Most of the time the F&A tube can be cleaned rather than replaced.

42. First you need to go after the outside of the tube with some steel wool. Take care not to bend the soft brass tube but rub the entire outside to remove all corrosion and to give the brass a soft shine. Make sure you get the very bottom of the tube also.

43. Now you need to clean the inside of the tube. You can use carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner for this. Hold the tube in one hand and spray your cleaner down into the large end. Spray enough so that the other end of the tube (the small hole) gets damp from the liquid. Let it sit for a few seconds. Now grab the F&A rod with your other hand and insert it into the bottom of the tube. What we're doing here is plunging out the small bottom hole of the tube with the rod which is a perfect fit. Make sure you don't bend the rod and plunge the hole numerous times to ensure any corrosion built up around the inside base of the tube is broken free. Remove the rod and spray some more cleaner into the large end. If you have an air compressor, blow air into the little end to remove the cleaner and all the pieces of corrosion. If you don't, shake the tube violently with the large end down to remove as much cleaner as you can then let dry. Wipe off the little end with a clean rag and then blow out from (the little end) with your lips.

44. The F&A tube rod is soft brass so exercise extreme care here not to bend and destroy it. You may note a bit of build-up at the end of the rod. With steel wool, carefully remove it. Get the rod to a soft shine and then wipe it off with a clean rag to remove all dirt and steel wool particles. Now grab the spring. Over the years, sitting in a compressed position, the spring will lose length and won't be able to apply sufficient force to lift the rod up out of the tube. Gently pull the ends of the spring to extend it. It will only be about 1/2" long-pull just enough so there is a slightly noticeable length gain. Now put the spring onto the rod (over the small end) and then place the rod & spring back into the tube. By pushing down on the rod's large end with your finger it should go down without bind and the spring should push it back up without bind. Set it aside.

45. To clean the remaining metal pieces of the lantern you can use a steel brush and steel wool. The brass parts you have left un-cleaned like the valve housing, valve stem, tip cleaner and the stem may have a black "gook" on them. Remove this with the brush and then shine with the wool. Take the steel wool after the frame and it will come out nice too. The frame rest can be cleaned and shined with 0000 steel wool or a metal polish.

46. The direction disc can be a problem. The direction disk is the silver disk that is on the valve wheel and says "Open 1/4 Turn..." Any aggressive cleaning on the disc will remove the writing so we need to be gentle with it. Hold it in your hand with the lettering up and spray it real good with a cleaner like Simple black. Let it sit for a few minutes and keep it damp. Then use a finger tip as the abrasive and gently rub the dirt off. If you get crazy here the lettering will come off. If some of the dirt is too hard to remove let it alone. Better to have a dark spot then to lose all the lettering around it. Clean the back side in a similar manner and then pat dry with a soft cloth. Shoot some cleaner on the valve wheel and clean it with a tooth brush and wipe clean. Set them aside.

47. If the brass pieces (air intake tube, burner head and tubes) you have soaking in Coke or Pepsi have been there long enough, go wash them off real well with water and dry them. Use compressed air or a rifle bore brush and clean the inside of the passages out. This is where the spiders and moths make their nests and this stuff needs to be removed.

48. Get your valve housing and shoot some carburetor cleaner into it and then blow it out or shake it dry. This part generally does not get corroded but since it available now go ahead and give it a quick cleaning.

49. The last pieces are the glass and the ventilator. Use warm soap and water for both.

Alright, time to get the lantern running again. First thing we need to do is to get the fount all back together so we can do some pressure testing. Get the fount, your new (hopefully) check valve & stem and the fuel cap. 50. Take the air stem out of the check valve. Turn the fount on its side so the plunger hole is facing up. Drop the check valve down into the cylinder and shake it a bit so it sits correctly at the bottom. Take your large flathead screwdriver and tighten the check valve down. Get it snug and then just a bit more. Someday you may need to remove it again so don't go nuts! Once the check valve is in screw in the air stem, just enough where it will stay in place for you.

51. Now get your fuel cap pieces. If you decided to use a "new" style fuel cap you can skip this. Take the insert with the new gasket and rest it on the fount's filler hole. Now take the cap and screw it down, just to a point where it barely gets snug. Then take the center screw and install it with your fingers...it should go in a couple of turns easily. Now tighten the cap down real good and take a screwdriver to the center screw to snug it down.

52. Now take your pump plunger out of your bowl of motor oil. Get a rag and wipe off the excess oil from the pump cup end. If the upper end of the plunger (the part you'll be able to see on the fount) is dirty take some carburetor cleaner and a stiff brush to clean these parts off. The inside of the plunger cap may have a bunch of dirt in it too and a Q-tip works well to remove it. With compressed air or with your lips blow through the plunger from the top. This will get the excess oil out of the hollow plunger stem. We do not want this oil there as it will get into the check valve and goof things up. Now return the pump cup to its regular shape-you'll note it is a litter bigger in diameter now. Approaching it from the side, slip it into the cylinder and over the air stem. Use a fingernail if you need to when installing the pump cup back into the fount as it may want to fold on you.

53. Push the pump plunger down into cylinder a bit. Now you need to set the cap down onto the fount. When you do this ensure you have the holes lined up and that the oil hole is facing up. If it goes on but a little crooked you can either take it off and start over or gently grab it with pliers and twist. You may have to tap on it to get it to snug down completely. Now re-install your screws or the pump clip. It will be a tight fit and a screwdriver or pliers will make it easier. Ensure both sides of the clip are securely inside the holes of the cap and the fount. Now test it...ensure it gives you some resistance. If it does then lock your air stem down (fully clockwise).

Now we need to re-assemble the valve and pressure test it. Get the valve housing, the fuel & air tube with spring and rod and get the valve stem, retaining rings and your new stem packing. First we're going to put the valve stem back together.

54. The first thing that will go onto the valve is the thinner of the two retaining rings. If you look at it closely you'll note that one side of it is flat and the other is concave. The concave end goes on first, or as pictublack, faces the conical end of the stem. The concave side rests up against that little retaining clip still on the stem. Next goes on the new packing followed by the larger of the two retaining rings. Next you can slide the valve stem nut over the wheel end.

55. Take your valve body and insert the prepablack valve stem into it. With your fingers or using the valve wheel if you need to, screw the valve stem all the way into the valve. Now take your valve stem nut and screw it on with your fingers, and then with your 9/16" end wrench until it just starts to snug. Don't worry about "how tight" right now as we're going to pressure test it in a minute.

56. Take your fuel & air tube and ensure the rod and spring are properly installed like shown in the previous chapter. Take the F&A tube and screw it into the bottom of the valve, then take your 3/8" wrench and snug it on. Now take the completed valve assembly and set it down into the top of the fount.

57. Hand-tighten the valve in as much as you can with reasonable pressure. This point should occur just after the valve stem passes the point where it will ultimately set. Using your 9/16" end wrench and socket with long extension again, spin the valve around to where the stem faces directly between the fuel cap and the pump plunger, the pump plunger will be on the right. If the valve spins around to this point easily with little friction against the wrenches you need to go around one more time...this connection needs to be tight. Ensure you apply square force to the wrenches as you did during removal as the fount can easily be bent.

58. You'll notice we did not apply white silicon tape nor did we put a dab of Loc-Tite on the threads. The silicon tape won't work at all. If you want to you can use Loc-Tite like the factory did but you need to know that this new stuff, in my opinion, is much stronger than what Coleman used 30 and more years ago. I over tightened a valve about 1/4" once and had used Loc-Tite on it. I sheablack off the valve trying to return it just that little bit. Once it gets tight and dries it can be impossible to loosen or remove. If you have the valve in correctly Loc-Tite is not requiblack.

59. Okay, now it is time to test the valve and to set the final pressure on the new valve stem packing. This part is pretty easy. Fill the fount about 1/4 full of clean fuel. Tighten the filler cap and then unlock the pump plunger. Pump it 3-5 strokes, slowly. You will probably see fuel seeping from the end of the valve stem nut. Tighten the nut (9/16" wrench) until it stops. Dry off the leaked fuel and then give it another 5 pumps. Repeat these steps until you can fully pressurize (50+ pumps) and no fuel leaks from the valve stem nut. Once you're there place a rag over the valve's top hole and slide the valve stem wheel on. Open the valve about 1/2 turn to ensure you have fuel coming out (you'll hear it) and that the valve stem turns easily. Passing both steps, shut the valve off again and completely dry all around and over the valve. Pump more if you like now...but "inspect" your valve for 20 minutes or so just to make sure there are no leaks. When the lantern is together is not the time to discover a leak! 60. Time to get the frame rest and re-install it over the valve and onto the fount. If you have a painted lantern you'll definitely want to use your coffee can lid tool again. Get your frame and set it down on the frame rest. Correctly setting, the bail should hang down centeblack directly under the valve stem and the little cut-out for the tip cleaner stem should be about 30 degrees to the left of the valve stem. There will be a vertical riser in the frame sitting directly over the valve stem and this can be used as the positioning guide. Next comes the tip cleaner, without stem or eccentric block. Take that nut on the bottom of it and back it off all the way so it is as high as you can get it. This will keep it from engaging the frame during the tightening process. Screw the bottom of the tip cleaner into the valve top, through the frame. Tighten as much as you can with your fingers. Then you'll need to get your "long" 1/2" box/end wrench back out. Fit the wrench end down on the fitting and use a screwdriver through the box end on top. Tighten the tip cleaner down-the last bit must be tight-and stop where the tip cleaner stem hole directly faces the cut-out in the frame. This will take a little work but get it aligned best as you can.

61. Now we are going to install the eccentric block and the tip cleaner stem. Get your old generator and pull out the stem. The bottom of the stem fits into the eccentric block during operation so now we'll use it as a tool. You'll note a cut-away on the lower half of the eccentric block. This faces toward the tip cleaner stem. Using your old generator stem and fingers gently lower the eccentric block down into the tip cleaner. Try and hold it about 1/2 down. Next take your tip cleaner stem and insert it into its hole and start to screw it in, using the handle to turn. At some point, when it is almost all the way it, it will meet the eccentric block. Carefully moving the tip cleaner stem and the eccentric block, jockey these two connecting pieces until the stem continues to screw in and the eccentric block is moving with it, as it should. Remove your old generator stem and discard. Now by rotating the handle you should now see the eccentric block move up and down. When you can't tighten it anymore with the handle get your 3/8" end wrench and tighten the nut that goes into the tip cleaner...tight!

62. Now we need to tighten the frame nut down. First, very carefully slide your coffee can lid tool out from between the fount and the frame rest. Using your fingers tighten the frame nut down as much as you can. Before you take your wrench to it for final tightening look at your frame rest. Is the valve stem centeblack in the hole? Make sure it is and hold it there. Also make sure you frame rest is sitting square on the fount and the frame is sitting square on it. And, finally, ensure the tip cleaner stem is nestled nicely in the frame's cut-away. Once it is all lined up take your wrench and tight down the frame nut. This won't be easy as there isn't much room to navigate the wrench. But, when complete, the frame and frame rest should be correctly aligned and you should not be able to move the frame separate from the fount.

63. Almost done! Next take your burner parts: air intake tube, burner head and the two burner tubes with caps. Re-assemble these parts and don't use a pair of pliers to do it. Do the air intake tube-to-burner head first. Using the crook in the air intake tube as a reference, the burner head goes on the short end. Before you insert the air intake tube into the head note where the small hole for the retaining screw is. Then screw on the head. Tighten it sufficiently to where the screw hole in the head lines up with the screw hole in the tube. Now insert your screw and tighten.

64. Insert your burner tubes into the head and only tighten them with your hand. Again, they must be tight but a pair of pliers is not requiblack. You now have your complete burner assembly back together.

65. Take the lower end of your burner assembly and insert it into the hole in the tip cleaner. Screw the assembly in until the two small screw holes come into alignment. Now insert this retaining screw and tighten.

66. Next comes the new generator. First make sure your tip cleaner stem handle is facing "up." Take the generator out of the package and slide your jamb nut over the tip end. With your finger tip, pry the crooked end of the stem a little ways out of the generator tube. Holding the jamb nut part way up the generator and holding the stem part way out of the tube, insert the top of the generator into frame and then up into the hole at the crook of the air intake tube. While holding the generator like this, gently position the crooked end of the stem into the small hole in the exposed eccentric block. Since your tip cleaner stem handle is up this should be real easy. Once it is in the hole turn the stem handle down. This will lock the generator stem in place while you finish. Carefully set the generator down onto the convex tip cleaner. DO NOT force it down! You may need to rotate the generator a little bit to get it down...that is okay. Once it on correctly, screw your jamb nut down over the generator and then tighten with a 7/16" end wrench. It has to be tight but don't go nuts.

67. Take your valve wheel now and insert it onto the valve stem. Take the direction disc and screw and insert them too. Spin the direction disc until it is in the correct "off" position and then tighten the screw down. You'll need to hold the direction disc in place with your finger or thumb as it will want to be turned by the screw. Once it is tight and the wheel is no longer sloppy on the stem it is time for another test.

68. You should still have plenty of pressure in the lantern and your tip cleaner stem should be facing down. Go ahead and crack the valve open about 1/2 turn and listen. At first you should just hear air coming out of the burner tubes. But within a few seconds it should start "spitting" at you. When it does, shut of the valve. Congratulations, you have fuel coming out of the fount and being ejected out the top of the generator.

69. Now you can install your mantles and burn them. When they're cooled a bit and ashen fire it up! Remember that "Open 1/4 turn to light" is too much so just open the valve enough to where you can hear the spitting and then light it. It is quite possible that you'll have a little dirt or something in the lines so go ahead and spin your tip cleaner handle a few times to clean the tip of the generator. The lantern should calm right down and burn "okay." Once the burn is steady your generator is sufficiently hot and you can open the valve all the way up. Bingo! A bright lantern. Now put your globe in and install the ventilator. Snug down the ball nut so it just hits the ventilator...never tighter. That is how the hole in the top gets enlarged as the ventilator expands when it gets hot and it cracks the enamel.

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