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Rebuilding a Double Mantle Lantern

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Part Three: Re-Assembly Procedures

Alright, time to get the lantern running again. First thing we need to do is to get the fount all back together so we can do some pressure testing. Get the fount, your new (hopefully) check valve & stem and the fuel cap.

Fig 30A

Fig 30B

Take the air stem out of the check valve. Turn the fount on its side so the plunger hole is facing up (Fig 30A). Drop the check valve down into the cylinder and shake it a bit so it sits correctly at the bottom. Take your large flathead screwdriver and tighten the check valve down. Get it snug and then just a bit more. Someday you may need to remove it again so don't go nuts! Once the check valve is in screw in the air stem, just enough where it will stay in place for you (Fig 30B).

Fig 31A

Fig 31B

Now get your fuel cap pieces. If you decided to use a "new" style fuel cap you can skip this. Take the insert with the new gasket and rest it on the fount's filler hole (Fig 31A). Now take the cap and screw it down, just to a point where it barely gets snug. Then take the center screw and install it with your should go in a couple of turns easily. Now tighten the cap down real good and take a screwdriver to the center screw to snug it down (Fig 31B).

Fig 32A

Fig 32B

Now take your pump plunger out of your bowl of motor oil. Get a rag and wipe off the excess oil from the pump cup end (Fig 32A). If the upper end of the plunger (the part you'll be able to see on the fount) is dirty take some carburetor cleaner and a stiff brush to clean these parts off. The inside of the plunger cap may have a bunch of dirt in it too and a Q-tip works well to remove it. With compressed air or with your lips blow through the plunger from the top. This will get the excess oil out of the hollow plunger stem. We do not want this oil there as it will get into the check valve and goof things up. Now return the pump cup to its regular shape-you'll note it is a litter bigger in diameter now. Approaching it from the side, slip it into the cylinder and over the air stem (Fig 32B). Use a fingernail if you need to when installing the pump cup back into the fount as it may want to fold on you.

Fig 33A

Fig 33B

Push the pump plunger down into cylinder a bit. Now you need to set the cap down onto the fount. When you do this ensure you have the holes lined up (Fig 33A) and that the oil hole is facing up. If it goes on but a little crooked you can either take it off and start over or gently grab it with pliers and twist. You may have to tap on it to get it to snug down completely. Now re-install your screws or the pump clip (Fig 33B). It will be a tight fit and a screwdriver or pliers will make it easier. Ensure both sides of the clip are securely inside the holes of the cap and the fount. Now test it...ensure it gives you some resistance. If it does then lock your air stem down (fully clockwise).

Now we need to re-assemble the valve and pressure test it. Get the valve housing, the fuel & air tube with spring and rod and get the valve stem, retaining rings and your new stem packing. First we're going to put the valve stem back together.

Fig 34

Looking at Fig 34, to the left is the wheel end, to the right is the conical end. The first thing that will go onto the valve is the thinner of the two retaining rings. If you look at it closely you'll note that one side of it is flat and the other is concave. The concave end goes on first, or as pictured, faces the conical end of the stem. The concave side rests up against that little retaining clip still on the stem. Next goes on the new packing followed by the larger of the two retaining rings. Next you can slide the valve stem nut over the wheel end.

Fig 35A

Fig 35B

Take your valve body and insert the prepared valve stem into it. With your fingers or using the valve wheel if you need to, screw the valve stem all the way into the valve (Fig 35A). Now take your valve stem nut and screw it on with your fingers, and then with your 9/16" end wrench until it just starts to snug (Fig 35B). Don't worry about "how tight" right now as we're going to pressure test it in a minute.

Fig 36A

Fig 36B

Take your fuel & air tube and ensure the rod and spring are properly installed like shown in the previous chapter. Take the F&A tube and screw it into the bottom of the valve (Fig 36A), then take your 3/8" wrench and snug it on. Now take the completed valve assembly and set it down into the top of the fount (Fig 36B)

Fig 37

Figure 37 shows what the valve will look like when properly installed. To do this, hand-tighten the valve in as much as you can with reasonable pressure. This point should occur just after the valve stem passes the point where it will ultimately set. Using your 9/16" end wrench and socket with long extension again, spin the valve around to where the stem faces directly between the fuel cap and the pump plunger, the pump plunger will be on the right. If the valve spins around to this point easily with little friction against the wrenches you need to go around one more time...this connection needs to be tight. Ensure you apply square force to the wrenches as you did during removal as the fount can easily be bent.

You'll notice we did not apply white silicon tape nor did we put a dab of Loc-Tite on the threads. The silicon tape won't work at all. If you want to you can use Loc-Tite like the factory did but you need to know that this new stuff, in my opinion, is much stronger than what Coleman used 30 and more years ago. I over tightened a valve about 1/4" once and had used Loc-Tite on it. I sheared off the valve trying to return it just that little bit. Once it gets tight and dries it can be impossible to loosen or remove. If you have the valve in correctly Loc-Tite is not required.

Okay, now it is time to test the valve and to set the final pressure on the new valve stem packing. This part is pretty easy. Fill the fount about 1/4 full of clean fuel. Tighten the filler cap and then unlock the pump plunger. Pump it 3-5 strokes, slowly. You will probably see fuel seeping from the end of the valve stem nut. Tighten the nut (9/16" wrench) until it stops. Dry off the leaked fuel and then give it another 5 pumps. Repeat these steps until you can fully pressurize (50+ pumps) and no fuel leaks from the valve stem nut. Once you're there place a rag over the valve's top hole and slide the valve stem wheel on. Open the valve about 1/2 turn to ensure you have fuel coming out (you'll hear it) and that the valve stem turns easily. Passing both steps, shut the valve off again and completely dry all around and over the valve. Pump more if you like now...but "inspect" your valve for 20 minutes or so just to make sure there are no leaks. When the lantern is together is not the time to discover a leak! Okay, now get the frame rest and re-install it over the valve and onto the fount. If you have a painted lantern you'll definitely want to use your coffee can lid tool again.

Fig 38A

Fig 38B

Now get your frame and set it down on the frame rest. Correctly setting, the bail should hang down centered directly under the valve stem and the little cut-out for the tip cleaner stem should be about 30 degrees to the left of the valve stem (Fig 38A). There will be a vertical riser in the frame sitting directly over the valve stem and this can be used as the positioning guide. Next comes the tip cleaner, without stem or eccentric block. Take that nut on the bottom of it and back it off all the way so it is as high as you can get it. This will keep it from engaging the frame during the tightening process. Screw the bottom of the tip cleaner into the valve top, through the frame. Tighten as much as you can with your fingers. Then you'll need to get your "long" 1/2" box/end wrench back out. Fit the wrench end down on the fitting and use a screwdriver through the box end on top. Tighten the tip cleaner down-the last bit must be tight-and stop where the tip cleaner stem hole directly faces the cut-out in the frame (Fig 38B). This will take a little work but get it aligned best as you can.

Fig 39A

Fig 39B

Fig 39A shows you how the hole in the tip cleaner should face directly out towards that cut-out in the frame and Fig 39B shows you why. Now we are going to install the eccentric block and the tip cleaner stem. Get your old generator and pull out the stem. The bottom of the stem fits into the eccentric block during operation so now we'll use it as a tool. You'll note a cut-away on the lower half of the eccentric block. This faces toward the tip cleaner stem. Using your old generator stem and fingers gently lower the eccentric block (Fig 39A) down into the tip cleaner. Try and hold it about 1/2 down . Next take your tip cleaner stem and insert it into its hole and start to screw it in, using the handle to turn. At some point, when it is almost all the way it, it will meet the eccentric block. Carefully moving the tip cleaner stem and the eccentric block, jockey these two connecting pieces until the stem continues to screw in and the eccentric block is moving with it, as it should (Fig 39B). Remove your old generator stem and discard. Now by rotating the handle you should now see the eccentric block move up and down. When you can't tighten it anymore with the handle get your 3/8" end wrench and tighten the nut that goes into the tip cleaner...tight!

Fig 40A

Fig 40B

Fig 40A shows the tip cleaner stem fully installed in the tip cleaner. Now we need to tighten the frame nut down. First, very carefully slide your coffee can lid tool out from between the fount and the frame rest. Using your fingers tighten the frame nut down as much as you can. Before you take your wrench to it for final tightening look at your frame rest. Is the valve stem centered in the hole? Make sure it is and hold it there. Also make sure you frame rest is sitting square on the fount and the frame is sitting square on it. And, finally, ensure the tip cleaner stem is nestled nicely in the frame's cut-away. Once it is all lined up take your wrench and tight down the frame nut. This won't be easy as there isn't much room to navigate the wrench. But, when complete, the frame and frame rest should be correctly aligned and you should not be able to move the frame separate from the fount (Fig 40B).

Almost done! Next take your burner parts: air intake tube, burner head and the two burner tubes with caps. Re-assemble these parts and don't use a pair of pliers to do it. Do the air intake tube-to-burner head first. Using the crook in the air intake tube as a reference, the burner head goes on the short end. Before you insert the air intake tube into the head note where the small hole for the retaining screw is. Then screw on the head. Tighten it sufficiently to where the screw hole in the head lines up with the screw hole in the tube. Now insert your screw and tighten.

Insert your burner tubes into the head and only tighten them with your hand. Again, they must be tight but a pair of pliers is not required. You now have your complete burner assembly back together.

Fig 41A

Fig 41B

Take the lower end of your burner assembly and insert it into the hole in the tip cleaner (Fig 41A). Screw the assembly in until the two small screw holes come into alignment (Fig 41B). Now insert this retaining screw and tighten.

Fig 42A

Fig 42B

Next comes the new generator. First make sure your tip cleaner stem handle is facing "up." Take the generator out of the package and slide your jamb nut over the tip end. With your finger tip, pry the crooked end of the stem a little ways out of the generator tube. Holding the jamb nut part way up the generator and holding the stem part way out of the tube, insert the top of the generator into frame and then up into the hole at the crook of the air intake tube. While holding the generator like this, gently position the crooked end of the stem into the small hole in the exposed eccentric block (Fig 42A). Since your tip cleaner stem handle is up this should be real easy. Once it is in the hole turn the stem handle down. This will lock the generator stem in place while you finish (Fig 42B). Carefully set the generator down onto the convex tip cleaner. DO NOT force it down! You may need to rotate the generator a little bit to get it down...that is okay. Once it on correctly, screw your jamb nut down over the generator and then tighten with a 7/16" end wrench. It has to be tight but don't go nuts.

Fig 43A

Fig 43B

Take your valve wheel now and insert it onto the valve stem. Take the direction disc and screw and insert them too. Spin the direction disc until it is in the correct "off" position and then tighten the screw down. You'll need to hold the direction disc in place with your finger or thumb as it will want to be turned by the screw. Once it is tight and the wheel is no longer sloppy on the stem (Fig 44A) it is time for another test.

You should still have plenty of pressure in the lantern and your tip cleaner stem should be facing down. Go ahead and crack the valve open about 1/2 turn and listen. At first you should just hear air coming out of the burner tubes. But within a few seconds it should start "spitting" at you. When it does, shut of the valve. Congratulations, you have fuel coming out of the fount and being ejected out the top of the generator.

Now you can install your mantles and burn them. When they're cooled a bit and ashen fire it up! Remember that "Open 1/4 turn to light" is too much so just open the valve enough to where you can hear the spitting and then light it. It is quite possible that you'll have a little dirt or something in the lines so go ahead and spin your tip cleaner handle a few times to clean the tip of the generator. The lantern should calm right down and burn "okay." Once the burn is steady your generator is sufficiently hot and you can open the valve all the way up. Bingo! A bright lantern. Now put your globe in and install the ventilator. Snug down the ball nut so it just hits the ventilator...never tighter. That is how the hole in the top gets enlarged as the ventilator expands when it gets hot and it cracks the enamel. The final product is shown in our last figure. I forgot to save a burning picture--Fig 43B is not the lantern we just put back together but you get the point!

I welcome all input, good and bad. I'd like to know that it helped you but I'd also like to know if I have typeOs or if something I wrote just doesn't make sense to you. In my mind it all does but I've done this a million a first time fixer it may be Greek in nature, I'm not sure. So please feel free to send me an email, I'd love to hear from you.

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