This is Curtsey of the:


Rebuilding a Double Mantle Lantern


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Part One: Disassembly Procedures.

Right now you should go get yourself a cup of coffee or a glass of soda. This chapter is going to be graphics heavy. Words are one thing but a picture says a thousand words.

The lanterns I'm showing your are a 1950 220D and a younger 220E. These are "middle of the road" lanterns and pretty much the same as the 220s and 228s all the way up to the 1980s (except for slants). Old and younger lanterns will be a little different in some spots but you should be able to work through the differences. But if you have questions, you sure know who to ask! Will also work for Coleman-made Sears 2-mantle lanterns. If interest is high enough I will add a chapter for the newer lanterns like the 290 or 295 later on.

Okay, the first pictures should have loaded by now so let's get busy!

Before you start you should remove all of the fuel out of the lantern. Put this old fuel in an approved container that you don't need and dispose of it properly. You can find a hazardous waste recycling facility in your telephone book under public health.

Recommended Tools and Supplies List.

Tool List
Cleaning Stuff List
Replacement Parts List
Fire Extinguisher
Eye Protection
9/16" end wrench
Long 1/2" box-end wrench
7/16 end wrench
3/8" end wrench
5/16 end wrench
Flattip Screwdrivers S,M,L
#0 or #1 Crosstip Screwdriver
Razor Blade
9/16" deepwell socket with long extension
Pliers
Plastic 3lb Coffee Can Lid
Propane Torch
Spray Cleaner (Simple Green)
Auto Rubbing Compound
Metal Polish
Carburetor Cleaner
Coca Cola
Motor Oil
Generator
Check Valve & Stem
Filler Cap Insert Gasket
Valve Stem Packing

First thing we need to do is to remove the lantern's ventilator and globe. Unscrew the ball nut at the very top of the lantern. Pull the ventilator up and off, then pull out the glass globe. Set these 3 pieces aside and your lantern should now look like this.


Fig 1

Now we need to remove the generator and the burner assembly.


Fig 2A

Fig 2B

Turn the tip cleaner stem to the "up" position (loop facing up). Then take your 7/16" end wrench and loosen the jamb nut on the generator (Fig 2A). Once it is loose slide it up the generator. Then pull up on the generator sleeve to expose the needle assembly. The end of it will be inserted into the eccentric block (Fig 2B). Because your tip cleaner stem is "up" you'll be able to pull the stem right out of the eccentric block. Remove the entire generator and jamb nut from the lantern and set them aside.


Fig 3A

Fig 3B

Spin the lantern around to the tip cleaner stem is away from you. Down on the gas tip cleaner assembly you will see a screw (Fig 3A). It may be a flathead or crosstip. You'll need to angle your screwdriver down over the frame to get to it so don't strip it but it needs to come out. This will unlock the air intake tube from the gas tip cleaner assembly. Then grab the entire burner assembly (very top of lantern) and start unscrewing it. The air intake tube will back most of the way out of the gas tip cleaner assembly. When it comes free of the threads, pull it up to remove (Fig 3B) and set it aside.


Fig 4A

Fig 4B

Now we're going to remove the tip cleaner stem from the tip cleaner assembly. Take your 3/8" end wrench and apply it to the stem (Fig 4A). It may take a little pressure to unlock it but it will come out. The entire stem will rotate with it. As soon as it backs out far enough you'll note that the eccentric block falls down inside of the assembly. This is okay, we'll get it out in a minute. Completely unscrew the stem and set it aside (Fig 4B).


Coffee Can Lid

We're about to loosen the frame. During this phase it is really easy to scratch the heck out of the top of the fount because the bottom edge of the frame rest is real sharp. So sharp, in fact, that often times the factory's placement of the rest cuts the paint and leads to chipping all around it. So before we proceed we need to make Del Caley's special tool. Grab your coffee can lid. With a razor blade (this does not need to be exact) cut a 3/4" or so diameter hole in the center. Then cut a channel from this center hole to the outside edge, also about 3/4" wide. Then remove the lid's outer lip, about 3" on either side of the channel. Then set it aside for a second.


Fig 5A

Fig 5B

Now we need to loosen the nut that holds the frame down against the frame rest. This little nut can really be a bear so please take your time and exercise patience! Get your thinnest 9/16" end wrench and loosen the nut (Fig 5A). Once it comes free you'll probably be able to back it all the way off with your fingers. Be gentle now so you don't disturb the frame.

Now that the frame is sloppy get that neat coffee can tool out. Gently slide it between the fount and the frame rest. The 3/4" hole should find itself around the valve and the lid should be completely over the fount. Fig 5B shows this on a painted lantern, which is most appropriate for this tool as plated lanterns are not as easily damaged.


Fig 6A

Fig 6B

Okay, this can be a rough step. You'll note in the tool's list I said have a "long" 1/2" box end wrench..you're about to use it. Look at the tip cleaner assembly (Fig 6A). In the middle of it is the only place to fit a wrench and it is 1/2". The only way to get to this is from the top. And, to complicate matters getting leverage to that spot, at that angle, is rather difficult. So what you need is a box-end wrench that is long enough to where the box end sticks up above the frame when you have the wrench fitted down on the tip cleaner assembly (Fig 6B). Take a good long screwdriver and stick it through the "box" end of the wrench. Have someone hold the fount firmly and twist off the cleaner assembly. It may take some force but don't be afraid of it. If that 1/2" wrench is snug down there it will not let go. I've really torqued on them and have yet to damage even one.


Fig 7A

Fig 7B

Once the tip cleaner assembly comes free it will unscrew all the way out. Go ahead and lift it out (Fig 7A) and then, with one hand under it, turn it upside down. You'll remember that there is a free eccentric block inside? It will come right out. Put both pieces aside. Take your frame and lift it right off and set it aside too (Fig 7B).


Fig 8A

Fig 8B

Now you can take off your frame rest. You may or may not have the channel under the valve hole to work with (Fig 8A). If you have the channel, just slide the rest forward and lift up and off. If you have no channel you just need to slide the rest a little further forward so the rest completely clears the valve stem end. This may take a "gentle" squeeze. Take the rest off and set it aside (Fig 8B).


Fig 9A

Fig 9B

Next to come off, or should I say "out," is the valve assembly. A few words before we start this one. The fount is soft, it may be brass depending on which lantern you have. When you apply a wrench or wrenches to the valve you need to ensure you are applying square torque. If you try to rotate around the fount lop-sided or at an angle you'll bend the top for sure. Sometimes you'll get lucky and the valve will come right out. But most of the time you'll have to fight with the factory's seal job. Get your 9/16" end wrench and the long 3/8" drive extension with a deepwell 9/16" socket. You'll note that the top of the valve is hexed for your 9/16" wrench. It is but I've found it less dangerous to the fount if you apply torque to both sides of the valve. In Fig 9A you'll see the end wrench around the valve. Also there is the socket with extension on the valve stem. MOST OF YOUR PRESSURE NEEDS TO GO ON THE END WRENCH! Use the extension to steady yourself and then, if you need it, gently use it to unscrew the valve. Once that seal is broken it will come out pretty easy. Once it does you'll see the Fuel & Air tube at the bottom.


Fig 10A

Fig 10B

The fitting on the Fuel & Air tube is a 3/8". Grab you end wrench and unscrew the tube from the valve bottom. (Fig 10a). Once it comes out you'll find the top of a rod that is resting on a spring inside the tube. If really sticky sometimes this rod will stay with the valve when you pull the tube. If it does this a gentle tug should pull it out. Set your Fuel & Air tube and the rod/spring assembly aside. (Fig 10B).


Fig 11A

Fig 11B

Next step is the pump plunger assembly. Turn the fount so the pump is facing you. Depending on when your lantern was made you are either going to see two screws (Fig 11A) holding the plunger into the fount, or a "C" clip. Un-screw the small screws or take a small screwdriver and gently pry out one side of the clip to remove it. Often times this plunger's cap is stuck to the fount this old cruddy gas and oil and dirt. So, holding the fount firmly, pull straight out on pretty hard to snap it free. If you do this once or twice and it won't give, which happens, carefully take a screwdriver and using a rag and the fount for leverage pry all around the cap until it comes free. Once it comes out set it aside (Fig 11B).


Fig 12A

Fig 12B

Inside of the cylinder you just removed the plunger from you'll see a square rod. This is your air stem and it is screwed into the check valve. Take a pair of pliers and unscrew it (Fig 12A) and remove (Fig 12B). Take some "break free" spray, or carburetor cleaner, and shoot a couple of squirts down inside the pump plunger cylinder. Let this soak for about 1/2 hour or more before proceeding.

Okay, now comes the hardest part, the check valve. You'll need to take your time and be very careful here to get it out of your lantern. And I will tell you-sometimes it doesn't matter how careful you are, the check valve will strip out. A discussion about this little piece first.

The check valve is a small piece of brass that sits at the very bottom of the pump plunger cylinder. It screws into the fount and over the years gets locked down there. It is installed tightly in the first place but dirt, oil and some gas gets into the threads over time and it doesn't usually like to come out. And, because it is brass, the slot in the top will strip out real easily. I am working with a machinist to make a reasonably priced check valve removal tool but I'm having trouble with the easy-out sizes.

The following procedure will give you the best chance of success with a large flathead screwdriver. But I want you to know that it still may not work. Should you strip out the check valve you can take it to a machinist to have it removed with an easy-out our you can send the fount to me and I will remove it for you, at no charge, but you'll need to pay for round-trip shipping. But first let's try and get it out with a screwdriver.


Fig 13A

Fig 13B

If you look down inside of the pump plunger cylinder you'll see the check valve down there (Fig 13A). You'll see that the top of it is slotted. The "perfect" screwdriver for this job probably doesn't exist. This would have a blade width of 1/2" and a blade thickness of 5/16". Finding a screwdriver that thick would be real tough. So I recommend you find the thickest one you can. And, if possible, take a file or a grinding wheel to make it 1/2 wide. If the blade is too wide it will hit the sides of the fount and won't go into the check valve slot. Your intent here is to get a good bite in this slot and you may have to modify a screwdriver to achieve this.

Once you have a screwdriver that will work you'll need to have someone hold the fount for you (Fig 13B). You'll also need to attach either a wrench or vice grips to the screwdriver so you will have some torque. Do not apply any force to the screwdriver until it is perfectly centered in the cylinder! If it is off-center the blade tip will not be square to the bottom of the slot and it will strip it out.

With one hand hold the screwdriver handle...apply a real good bit of downward force while making darn sure the handle is centered in the cylinder. Then use the wrench or vice grip to unscrew the check valve. The result will come quickly...it will either "pop" and come loose or it will strip the slot out. All I can say is "good luck" here...


Fig 14A

Fig 14B

Next we're going to disassemble the fuel cap (or filler cap). First thing to do is to make sure it comes off. If you have a lantern than has been sitting for many years the cap may be frozen to the fount. To ensure that the old gasket hasn't connected itself to the fount just take the cap off. Then put it back on and tighten it as much as you can with your fingers. Tightening the cap will lock the insert and gasket down on the fount so you can get the screw out. With a flathead screwdriver try and unscrew the center screw (Fig 14A). If something seems to be "slipping" it means that the cap is too loose...tighten it some more. If you can't tighten further with your fingers you can gently apply a pair of pliers to get it real tight. When the screw decides to let go you will feel a small "snap." Remove the screw and then take the cap off again. This time, the insert will be left on the fount (Fig 14B). It should pull right off with your hand but may need a little help...lightly tap on it to remove if necessary. Set your 3-piece fuel cap aside.

The lantern is now disassembled. But during the process we left a few things undone that we need to go back and finish. We need to take apart the burner assembly and we need to remove the valve stem and packing.


Fig 15A

Fig 15B

The burner assembly you removed in an earlier step consists mainly of the main air intake tube, the mixing chamber and the two burner tubes and caps. The backside of the mixing chamber will probably have a screw in it. Sit the burner on your bench and put apply a good screwdriver to this screw (Fig 15A). Tap on the screwdriver with a hammer a couple of times, not too hard, just to free it. Then remove the screw. The air intake tube and both burner tubes are screwed into the mixing chamber. With your hand you can lightly squeeze the tubes, then wiggle them, until they unscrew (Fig 15B). If they have really locked in the chamber gently take a pair of pliers to the tubes and they should come right out. If the air intake tube won't come out with your hand put the tube lightly in a vice and unscrew the mixing chamber with a pair of pliers. You will end up with the four major parts separated. Inspect the screen at the bottom of the burner caps...if it is solid there really is no reason to separate the caps from the tubes. If they're bad or sloppy they'll need to be replaced. Set all these pieces aside.


Fig 16A

Fig 16B

Next comes removing the valve stem from the valve and taking it apart. With a 2-mantle lantern is process is very easy. Get your valve and hold it with a pair of pliers. Take a 9/16" end wrench and loosen the large retaining nut (Fig 16A). It may take a bit of force but it should unscrew pretty easily. If you're wondering why we didn't do this when the valve was still secured in the fount, it is because the force required to loosen this nut will sometimes twist the valve and bend the fount. Anyway, remove the retaining nut and set aside (Fig 16B).


Fig 17A

Fig 17B

Grab your valve wheel and apply it to the valve stem. Just like you're opening the valve, turn the wheel counter-clockwise until it comes out. All the way out. It may require you to pull on it a little bit but the entire valve stem will come out. (Fig 17A). Now remove the wheel. The "packing assembly" consists of a thick brass band, the packing and a thin brass band. These three pieces will pull right off the wheel-end of the valve stem. This may require a little force--if that packing is really tight you can break it with a pair of needle nose pliers by gently squeezing it. Fig 17B shows the pieces of the valve stem removed from it.


Fig 18

So here it is, completely disassembled and ready for cleaning & repair. You'll be pleased to know that assembly is a bit easier than was disassembly! Chapter 2 will deal with cleaning and preparing to put it all back together.

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